What to do in the Garden in March - Garden To Do

I want to go out and work in the garden more this year than I have in many years!  The snow has not even melted off my grass or raised beds yet and I am still thinking, I could go out and do this or that.  I have a rule, no visiting the offsite herb garden until April 15.  The day after Tax Day I can go look at the garden and start making my to do list. If I go out there sooner, I will be tempted to just “fix” this or that and walk around in an area that is way too soggy in early spring to resulting in compacting my soil, so I ban myself from my own garden as a result of past missteps! 

However, the home garden is right out the backdoor and nothing can stop me from trekking out there, once I can step off the porch. So I had to ask myself, what can I do in the garden now that would be helpful, not harmful in the coming months.

Then I remembered that the tree service removed all my stepping stones so as not to break them when they were removing the logs from the yard. I have a wonderful March project to work on. I should also fix the uneven stone in the Thyme walkway, but that might be a while if this snow pile is any indication.  You cannot even see that there are thyme plants under there yet.

Stepping stones in the lawn and garden can become unstable due to excessive rains or heaving, caused by alternating periods of freezing and thawing. So they too should be stabilized and leveled to make them safe to walk on. To fix, this requires that you actually lift the stones and add soil or gravel beneath them. Use a level to verify that they are even with the ground.

Repair a Dry Stacked-Stone Wall

I am also considering replacing the now fully decomposed wood sides to my herb bed with a dry-stacked stone wall.  This is also a great time for you to repair an existing dry stack wall. A dry-stacked stone wall means that they're not actually mortared in place.  However, they do have a tendency to shift during the winter months. As a result, the border becomes a bit unsightly, not to mention dangerous, especially if kids occasionally walk on the stones.

Late winter to early spring is an ideal time to reposition stones. Sometimes minor adjustments are all that's needed; simply moving the larger stones with smaller ones can stabilize the border. It doesn't take all that much time or effort, and the payoff is worth it in terms of enhanced aesthetics and safety. And with the soil being wet and soft this time of year it makes the task even easier.

Correct Tunnels Made by Garden Pests

Unstable stones aren't the only hazards that can lead to a sprained ankle. There are also tunnels and mounds of dirt created by moles and gophers. They too should be leveled with a metal rake and tamped firmly. The exposed soil can later be reseeded with grass seed or left as-is if your turfgrass is the type that tends to spread.

Spring-Flowering Bulbs

It's not unusual for the foliage of early spring-blooming bulbs to turn brown, especially at the tips, when temperatures drop suddenly. Although the foliage may not look all that great, the bulbs themselves will be just fine and will flower pretty much on schedule.

Now is a good time to do a quick sketch of where your bulbs are. This will help when the foliage fades later in the year and you begin planting annuals and perennials in the same bed. You'll have a map of where the bulbs are and avoid destroying them as you dig.

source: Getty Images/istockphoto

Touch Up Mulch

You may need to wait until the snow is gone to do this, but my mulched beds tend to lose snow first, making this an ideal time of year to inspect your mulch, particularly its depth. Chances are organic mulches, especially those made from shredded or chipped wood, have decomposed somewhat or have been washed away by heavy rains.

With a metal rake, fluff your mulch a bit and try to level it out over your garden beds. Along the way, use a ruler to determine the average depth of the mulch. Ideally, you want at least a 2-inch layer, and 3 to 4 inches is OK, especially for southern gardeners.

Winter Pruning Trick

If you haven't already completed pruning your deciduous trees and shrubs, there's still time. Especially if the heavy snow damaged the shrubs in the last big snow.

First, stare at the tree or shrub in question with an eye toward its desired shape. Stare at it from several different perspectives from a distance at various angles, from just a few feet away, and even looking up into its canopy.

Now, rather than doing any pruning, tie some colored ribbon or twine around each limb or branch you think you want to prune. Over the course of several days, each time you walk by the tree or shrub, at different angles and various distances, try to imagine what it will ultimately look like if you were to remove the selected limbs.

Feel free to change your mind. If you're not sure about one of the limbs you've selected, remove the ribbon or move it to another limb. Then re-evaluate your selection. Within a few days, you'll get a better feel for where you should make your pruning cuts and greatly increase your chances of success when you finally make those cuts for real.

Clean your Tools & Pots

If you did not have time during fall cleanup to clean your gardening tools, now is a great time.  Wait for a warm day bring out a bucket and a scrub brush and clean up and sharpen your tools.  I get a set of cheap grill cleaning brushes and use those to scrape and clean my shovels, rakes and hoes.  I use a stone to sharpen my hand trowels to a cutting edge so they can easily slice through the earth.  I like to do this in spring so I can also remove any rust that has formed.

I grow many herbs and flowers in pots so now is the season for me to clean them and get them ready for new plants.  A mixture of 1 part household bleach and 9 parts water is the way to disinfect clay, ceramic and plastic pots.  I clean and remove residue from the inside and then soak them for at least 10 minutes in the disinfecting solution, then spread them out in the sun to dry.  If they need new paint, this is when I spray paint them. 

I like a terra cotta look to all my pots.  It gives my garden a cohesive look.  However real terra cotta is heavy and dries out very quickly, so many of my pots are plastic.  I spray paint them all a terra cotta color so you cannot tell the real from the plastic.

For a bit Later in March

I leave the seed-filled branches up for the birds and animals in winter, but when the grass starts to green, those branches become unsightly. So I will trim down my perennial grasses to about 6 inches tall and tall browned branches on other fall-blooming perennials to ground level.  Tarragon and lemon balm die back in winter, so I want to remove the dead tops once I start to see the new sprouts. Refrain from trimming your lavender, no matter how bad it looks, in March or even April.  It is slow to return and if you trim it too soon it will not bloom in the spring, so take a wait-and-see attitude with lavender.

• Scrub clay pots.
• Clean tools.
• Remove leaves from the bottom of ponds or other water features.

 

End of Season Tool Care and Purchasing

Now is the time to shop for gardening tools.  They are on sale at season end and you can get them cheaper than in the Spring.  Here is a list of essential tools that you should own to get your gardening done with ease. It’s also a good beginner list of garden tools that will give you a great foundation to help create your beautiful garden.

Garden Spade or Shovel: You will certainly need a spade to dig up your beds or to plant a tree or bush. A round point spade is made to easily cut through the soil for planting. A shovel is necessary to dig and prepare large holes or entire beds for planting.

Garden Claw: This tool is a fairly new addition to the garden tool family. It’s basically a long-handled cultivator. The garden claw is terrific for turning the soil and preparing beds with new soil. Soil needs to be aerated and the claw does a good job of this. This cultivator is great for mixing in fertilizers, compost, or new top soil into your existing bed.

Hand Trowel: A hand trowel is a mini spade that is used to plant small new plants and flowers. It’s ideal for working in tight spots in your garden and great for digging out those weeds!

Bypass Pruners: Pruners are needed to keep your plants trim. Pruning plants actually encourages proper growth and keeps the plant from getting unruly and unsightly. Bypass pruners are used for new, soft growth on bushes and flowers. To trim large branches; long-handled loppers should be used. Shears, which resemble an extra-large pair of scissors, are good for trimming bushes, hedges and smaller branches.

Corona Bypass Pruners

Hose and Watering Can: With no water there is no garden! To water large areas you will need a hose and it is worth spending the money on a good quality rubber hose. Don’t forget a watering can for light watering of your new plantings or your display pots.

Rake: We need clean up tools after we finish our gardening! A rake is wonderful for getting all that debris off your lawn. Lawn and leaf rakes are perfect for this chore.

Broom: Yes, a broom does belong on this list. I don’t mean the brooms you use inside your house but a straw type broom to whisk up all the debris on your walkways and patio areas. I find my broom to be very useful when cleaning up, especially after I have been harvesting and laying bundles of herbs on my patio table.

 

WINTER TOOL CARE

If you already have your tools, remember to care for them properly when you put them away for winter. Before wintery weather arrives, don’t forget to protect and put away your valuable tools, too. 

Hand Tools: If you have rinsed off and dried your rakes, shovels, trowels, garden forks or other hand tools after each use, you won’t have to do much at the end of the season. But if they are dirty, don a pair of goggles before using a stiff-bristled brush to scrub off any mud or rust. Fine sandpaper or steel wool will take care of small, rusty spots. 

Sharpen any dull tools you use for digging or cutting and file down nicks. Wear heavy gloves to protect your hands while doing this. Don’t have the proper files or sharpening stones? Your local hardware store or garden center may be able to handle these chores for you. 

Next, gently run your hands down the wooden handles to check for cracks or splinters. A medium-grit emery cloth or a piece of sandpaper will smooth rough, weathered wood. Replace broken wood handles; tapes and glues don’t usually last. To remove a tool head from the handle, protect your eyes with safety goggles and strike the head with a ball-peen hammer. Never hit metal with a nail hammer, which can cause dangerous metal fragments to fly off. 

Coat the metal parts of your tools with light oil or spray them with a lubricant like WD-40 before putting them away. To protect the wooden handles, apply linseed oil. Hang your tools in a shed or garage, out of the weather, until you’re ready to use them again. If you prefer, keep small hand tools stashed in a bucket of sand mixed with oil; it will help guard against rust. 

Garden Sprayers: Wash your sprayers inside and out with soapy water, using a sponge or scrub brush. Spray some of the soapy mixture through the lines to clear them. Then rinse thoroughly with clean water, spraying again to flush the lines. Allow the sprayers to dry thoroughly before storing them out of the weather. While you're at it, store the chemicals you use in the sprayers away from freezing temperatures. 

Garden Hoses: Remove nozzles and drain the hoses. When they're dry, mend any leaks with electrical tape or garden hose repair tape. Replace the ends of hoses and washers, if needed. Coil the hoses to keep them from kinking and hang them out of the elements.

Thanks to HGTV for these end of season cleaning tips